Purely Personal Skin Care

These are the basics, like the ones you would take with you on vacation or a week end away.  Start with a facial cleanser (NO SOAP).  Next, try an exfoliating scrub or mask (not necessarily every day), followed by a rich moisturizer and maybe a special eye cream for dark circles or crow’s feet. In the morning, don’t forget sun block.  If you buy a sun block that includes tint and moisturizer, you’ll have a good, time-saving combination.

Try to cleanse twice a day - not much more as water isn’t all that good for your skin - water can actually dry it out.  The nightly routine is important as your skin goes into repair and build mode while you sleep and you really want to get rid of the days accumulation of environmental assault.  If you’re afraid you’ll be too tired at bed time to cleanse, exfoliate and moisturize - do it an hour or two before going to bed.  You can get your routine down to a couple of minutes.  If you are always in a hurry in the morning,  get up ten minutes earlier so you can work in time to take care of your skin.  It will say “thank you”.

Think of your skin care regimen like making up your own recipe.  Through trial and error you will find the products that are best for you.  Don’t skimp on your skin care - you have only one face and it needs attention and good, natural products.  You may be using a product and it all of a sudden begins to irritate your face - could be a retinoid or an alpha hydroxy acid.  Well, if you like the original results of the irritating product then try adding a botanical cleanser, like chamomile, and some lipid drops to smooth and calm your skin.  If you have a question about what you are using, consult a dermatologist.  If you establish a good relationship with your dermatologist, he/she will often give some quick advice to solve your dilemma.

Customize your skin care regimen to find the right combination of products in the right proportions to achieve your desired results.  Try not to buy skin care products on a whim.  Be careful and choose each product to match the needs of your particular skin.  There is no one-size-fits-all product or combination of products.

Here’s a little lesson on the skin.  Our skin consists of three layers:  the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue.  Epidermis represents the outer layer, dermis is the middle and subcutaneous is a layer of fat and connective tissue that contains larger blood vessels and nerves.  It important in regulating the body’s temperature.    For our purposes, the epidermis and dermis are the most important when we’re looking at the skin’s condition and how skin care products can affect the skin’s condition on the surface and underneath.  Also, what products are effective in each layer.

There are some ingredients in moisturizers that are small enough to penetrate the skin cells of the epidermis.  Small, light molecules can travel deep as the interface between the epidermis and the dermis. Other ingredients produce changes deep in the skin by sending messenger molecules into the dermis to stimulate the manufacture of important skin components.

Both glycolic acid and retinoids increase the production of hyaluronic acid in the dermis.  Yesterday’s blog dealt with the use of hyaluronic acid on the skin’s surface to trap moisture from the environment which helps keep the skin looking smooth.  So, we see hyaluronic acid in both layers, one applied on the surface and the other stimulated by other natural ingredients.  Algae peptides also are able to penetrate into the dermis.  Results of clinical trials show that a twice-daily application of 5 percent algae peptides improved hydration of the skin by 128 percent after only one month.

So when choosing facial moisturizers and exfoliates look for ingredients like: hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, retenoids and algae peptides.  We’ll discuss lipid drops at another time.

When spending time outdoors in the hot summer weather, there are a few safe practices of which to be aware. Foremost, it’s important to wear sunblock whenever outdoors for an extended period of time. The risk for skin cancer has never been higher as the ozone continues to deplete over time, and sunblock protects against the sun’s harmful rays. Even if fully clothed, it’s best to wear sunblock on the face, neck, and top of the ears when venturing outdoors. When swimming, make sure to apply water resistant sunblock, as some sunblock will wipe off in the water and be rendered useless. It’s also a good idea to wear sunglasses when spending time outdoors, as our eyes can become damaged even if just looking at the sun reflecting off another surface. It’s also important to remain hydrated when outdoors, as heat stroke is much more common in the summer season.

Taking these precautions will ensure a much more enjoyable and safe summer for all. While there are dangers from the sun, overall, summer is about fun. Be safe but let loose when the weather calls for it!

Remember cold creams?  Some of us used them to remove make up but lots of women left them on as a facial moisturizer.  Cold creams are petroleum and water based and can protect the skin from flaking and drying but it can’t prevent or diminish lines and wrinkles.

I’m going to concentrate on only one family of ingredients that go into good moisturizers.  They are referred to as humectants.  The Wise Geek says “A humectant is an ingredient in cosmetic products to help retain moisture.  These substances are called hydroscopic, which means they are able to absorb ambient water.”  They actually attract water from the environment and produce an increase in water content on the skin’s surface, making the skin appear smoother.

A wonderful and popular humectant is hyaluronic acid.  It’s a lot like a sponge, holding 1,000 times its weight in water.  That’s why it makes a very good surface moisturizer.  Its molecules are too large to penetrate the skin, so it can’t take the place of hyaluronic acid that our cells produce naturally but often lose to damage from the sun.

Collagen is another common humectant.  It also has large molecules that can’t penetrate the skin.  It can’t hold as much water as hyaluronic acid so it would not be the preferred humectant for the skin’s surface.  Some cosmetic ingredients consist of molecules that are small enough to penetrate the living skin cells of the epidermis.  For example, glycolic acid and retinoids increase the production of hyaluronic acid in the dermis, thereby being wonderful ingredients for facial moisturizers and exfoliants.

What are commonly called “age spots” or “liver spots” (for their color) can occur even in the late 20’s if one has been addicted to tanning beds.  However, they are most common as we get older and especially on those of us who have spent too much unprotected time in the sun, even from an early age.  Once the spots start coming, Katy Bar The Door - they just keep coming.

There are two skin care ingredients that prove to be effective remedies for age spots:  glycolic acid and retinol.  In addition to reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, they’re known to fade age spots and other skin discolorations.  Age spots may not fully disappear with the use of these products but they should fade considerably.  Glycolic Renewal Gel can be used on your entire face but Retinol or Retin A should be used on the spots themselves and more frequently than you would normally apply glycolic acid.  Retinol (a derivative of Vitamin A) can be irritating to the skin.

If the above two remedies don’t provide the results you’re looking for, try a good fade cream.  Fade creams are designed specifically to even skin tone and lighten any discolorations.  The premier ingredient in a good fade cream is hydroquinone (HQ).  HQ is a chemical that prevents skin cells from making excess pigment.  There are other fade ingredients available but clinical tests show that HQ is the most effective.   A combination of 10% glycolic acid and 2% hydroquinone, some algae peptides and calming essential oils provide a formula that fades age spots, increases hydration and conteracts any irritation caused by the acid resulting in smooth, healthy-looking skin.

You can study and read articles about  anti-wrinkle products and not get the real truth - nothing but the truth, so help me.  Neuropeptides (argineline) plus antioxidants are a powerful anti-wrinkle serum.  Read the label.  How often do we say that.  If you can find a product that contains 10% of neuropeptides and multiple anti-oxidants - they are highly effective in reducing crow’s feet, forehead lines, frown  and lip lines.  Neuropeptides enhance Botox.  Or they are an injection alternative (Botox parralizes the nerves) with green tea and Vitamin E - antioxidants that fight free radicals.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) increases and stimulates collagen production and restores elasticity (elastins) to the skin.

Add all of the above to Hyaluronic Acid, which holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water which then improves skin texture by boosting moisture level and you have a powerful anti-wrinkle product - you might even call it Wri-Lax - relax.  Relax the wrinkles, increase moisture in the skin and the finished product - peachy cream, soft, supple skin.

At the end of a long day many people come home foot weary.  Here are some ideas on how to treat yourself and your feet to a “foot fair”.  Our feet are prone to cuts, dehydration, roughness, corns, skin cracks and joint pain.  This is especially true with today’s stiletto-like shoes for women and sockless shoes for men or to anyone whose job requires them to be on their feet all day.  Reward your tired dogs with a soak in a basin - do this while reading, watching TV or enjoying a facial mask.

Some things to add to your water include epsom salts, tea tree oil (helps eliminate odor as well), peppermint oil or other essential oils.  Soak your feet for at least twenty minutes.  Now that the skin is hydrated and soft, use a good foot scrub to take off dead skin and the skin on callouses.  After a hearty scrub, rinse, dry and then add moisturizer.  Put your feet in a clean pair of socks and they will almost audibly say “thank you”.

We pay so much attention to our faces that we often ignore our feet.  However, sometimes they cry out for help.  Even if you aren’t on your feet all day, they will still appreciate a leisurely soak, foot scrub and moisturizer.   Enjoy soft, sweet smelling feet - others will too.

Senescence - the organic process of growing older.  Catabiosis - normal aging of cells.  We aim to fight both of those with our anti-aging skin care.  Most of us want to reduce or eliminate the changes that occur with time and age.  Of course good nutrition, exercise and care to protect against the environmental onslaught of the sun and pollution can definitely help.  We can also improve our appearance at any age by smiling.  In fact a smiling older woman is considered more attractive than a non-smiling younger woman.  Some other small changes, such as sleeping on your back rather than you stomach can make a difference.  When you sleep on your stomach, your face gets scrunched up by the pillow.  Speaking of sleep, there’s another way to combat our senescence.  No matter what skin care beauty routine you follow, if you are sleep deprived, your face will show it.  No anti-aging routine can fix the effects of lack of sleep.

Find a good anti-aging skin care kit to begin with.  We recommend dermatologist-formulated beauty products as they are more likely to be natural.  Whatever you do, keep a daily skin care routine, morning and night and in between if you’re out in the sun.  Faithfully cleanse with a natural cleanser and tepid, never hot, water.  Exfoliate - this can be done while cleansing if you use a cleanser with salicylic acid.  MOISTURIZE - it’s a must.  At night use a rich night cream.  Lastly, use your sun block regularly - hopefully one with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

My actions to the contrary, I am not opposed to anti-aging, anti-aging cream, anti-aging moisturizers or anti-aging skin care in general.  I just don’t buy the term “anti-aging“.  It’s a life process.  It’s how we get from the cradle to the grave.  As we age we get smarter and wiser, hopefully.  We learn a lot as we age.  What’s wrong with that?  I’m for exfoliating, I’m for anything that tends to tighten the skin.  I’m all for the facial mask, the moisture mask and tightening mask.  They all add grace to the aging process and fight the natural effects of aging.  We’re not against aging, we’re pro-aging, we just want to age with a smile on our face.